This is it. Time to cast off.

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It’s December 9th, 2015, and we are off into the blue …sort of.

The crew enjoyed a relaxing night out to celebrate our last night in on land and the start of our journey to Kosrae, Federated States of Micronesia or FSM. We were welcomed to the restaurant with a cup of kava from the large shallow tanoa or bowl, as is customary. And I ask you, who wouldn’t take a drink of whatever this man is offering?

I felt like Alice in Wonderland, drinking potions.

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Each of us chooses the meals we felt we would miss the most. Tom and Emma were in heaven with 2 for 1 pizza night. I have to say it’s not what I expected from Frenchies. I enjoyed kokoda, Fijian ceviche and cassava cake with roasted pineapple. The kokoda is made with lime, coconut milk, tomato, chilies, and green onion, it’s rather soupy and I would say slurp-able! Delicious. Wayne struggled trying to create a vegan dish from the menu items and getting the server to understand the meaning of vegetables only. Despite the large Indian population, let’s just say Fiji has a long way to go before veganism catches on here! We cheered to a successful voyage as all enjoy our last alcoholic beverage – the crossings are “dry”

We all rise before dawn in anticipation of our departure, our goal is to set sail just a little after 10am, as soon as we have fueled up and cleared customs. I get started on mis en place, French for getting your things in order, prep done, dressings made, soups and cookie doughs in freezer, short ribs braising, etc. For the next few days we expect calm seas so I will be able to continue cooking and make the best use of time, before we hit rougher waters.

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It occurs to me that we are about to join a small group of people in the world – those who have sailed great distances, for extended periods of time, who can truly understand – each in their own way, what it means to be away from all that is familiar. Ah, the memories of being addicted to the musical South Pacific as a kid come flooding back, “I’m gonna wash that man right outta my hair…” There is no man in this scenario, I do personally feel a need for a life reset, and after last summers yacht season I’m in need of a new yachting memory! That’s a whole different tale for another time. Truthfully, I have not put much thought into the details. I can only control the galley and that will be a big enough challenge since I have not done this before. I find this exhilarating, a true test of skill, resourcefulness and resolve. The rest is up to Tom who I trust. He has many many sea miles under his belt, very experienced despite is young age of 27. For now, it’s time to go beyond all limits of comfort and familiarity. No time to second guess. This is REAL.

Fiji time….

Every island has it. Island Time. A unique concept of the passing of time, and for appointments times and attention to details. 10 am appointment you say? “He’s in a meeting until 11am, across island.” I’m here to see Customs I have an appointment, “Ok, I just want to make sure you have document such and such (that you have never heard of)?” “The officer who needs to sign it is off island at a…..(insert family occasion) he will return next week.” Just go with it. Smile. There is always a solution.

At last we are all sorted. The two hour delay has given me valuable time to cook and prep, I’m feeling confident. The Fijians, I learned don’t hug anyone, not even family. We are sent off with hand shakes, well wishes for Christmas and New Years and huge warm smiles. The engines are reeved up and the lines are cast off. Better than a hug, well at least in place of one, there is a beautiful tradition of wishing travelers a safe passage. The Marina and Custom’s staff gather at the dock to play guitar and sing to for us.  It’s beautiful and hauting to me.  There isn’t a dry eye on Discovery.

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Fiji Farewell from Elizabethe Branstetter on Vimeo.

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It’s a gorgeous day. The winds are light, the sky is clear blue with a few puffy clouds, we motor out of Vadu Marina.  A quick stop so the crew can scrub the hull, which I’m told will make us go faster. I take a quick dip in the warm, royal blue South Pacific Ocean, no scrubbing for the chef.  In a way, I could say I’m “washing out” the past and welcoming in all that lies ahead ala South Pacific the musical. We pass a scattering of islands, large and small, some that Tom and Emma have hiked, others are private resorts or uninhabited. I find a gecko hitching a ride with us, a hobo of sorts. Viwa Island is the last land we pass, it’s 4pm., next stop Kosrae, some 1,200 nautical miles away.  The vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean awaits.

Viwa Island the last land we’ll see for awhile.

Time for dinner before dusk.

Red lights come on, they save your eyes for seeing in the dark, as the sun sets.

It’s 9 pm with no moon and a starry night.
Location: 17.23’.95S/177.35’.99E

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