Provisioning in Lautoka, Fiji

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Provisioning: the art of being able to determine without much or any information how much food you will need for a trip of undetermined length. It truly is an art. Sure there are basic guidelines and estimates of quantities needed for pantry items but determining how long fresh produce will last – much that you may have never worked with or even heard of before – it’s a gift. Really. Check out the picture of the galley, that’s boat speak for kitchen. My broom closet is larger than this space! I did mention I love a challenge, right?

The galley, to the left of the range is an oven. The cutting board takes up all the counter space.

It’s the day before we set sail, I’ve had my coffee and Sam is waiting for me at the marina entrance. Sam, is Fijian of Indian descent, around 30, divorced with a small boy and the nicest guy I’ve meet in a while. He understands I won’t be able to see much if any of Fiji other than the tour of grocery stores, markets, butchers and bakers he and I are about to embark on, so he takes the side roads and points out places of interest and stops somewhere for a tasty treat nearly each time I mention food.

We head to Lautoka, also known as Sugar City, the first stop is a big grocery store for staples. Now one thing you must understand is, I adore going to food stores, stands, shops, etc. It’s my way of getting to know a new area and the people. The markets reflect the people their cultures, customs, religions, traditions and most fascinating for me, foods. I’m often in shock by the influence American junk and processed foods have on the locals. These foods line the shelves, long aisles, top to bottom with canned, packaged, plastic “food.” But let’s not get started on food politics and foreign policy. That’s for someone else’s page. I roam the aisles like a lost puppy, checking out the unusual and sometimes strange things I find. I take a few things to try out. Now on to the produce market!

Look at those incredible pineapples!

Sam ushers my groceries to the car and meets me back in the huge hall, that sells produce, fish and prepared goods, the local farmer’s market so to speak. Fiji has a massive Indian population, brought here by the British, the Indians are now the majority business owners, while the Fijians are land owners, nevertheless the produce, fresh herbs, fruits, spices you name it are top notch and plentiful. Wayne has tagged along and we are discussing vegetables for the crossing. Remember they must last and not take up too much space. There are eggs of all sizes, colors and from a variety of birds. The eggs reminded me of my trip to Thailand where I saw flamingo eggs. Yes, they are pink! We store eggs in the galley, at room temp it the bilge, a storage area under the floor boards. I’m skeptical of this system. Sam introduces me to his cousins, uncles, aunties, etc., as he asks where to find the items I need. He has the list and I wander off to see what else is here. I turn the corner and the hall opens up outdoors where all the Fijian farmers have their goods. Now we are talking unusual produce! Fern tenders, water spinach, fresh taro root, greens and more greens, yams and sweet potatoes all piled high. Now you may ask how do I know how to cook all these newly discovered on my part veggies? I ask the vendors. I have received many good recipes that are truly local and traditional. The common answer from the Indians: garlic, ginger, coconut. The Fijians: coconut, lime, chili. I see the fusion of Indian with Fijian, Fijian-Indo as it is known.

Sadly, I lost my photos of the market, “oops, that was a permanent delete…s***” Thankfully, Wayne had taken a few and was kind enough to share his photos.

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The Fijian farmers, selling ota – fern fronds.

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Late afternoon gossip I imagine.

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In addition to the foods I adore people watching and a local market is the place to see it ALL! People from all walks of life got to the market, everyone must eat! Apparently the Lautoka fish market is ground zero for personalities, these guys had me in stitches laughing at their antics. We will be fishing as we sail but there are no guarantees of a catch so I buy a few whole fish to have just in case.

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